DIRECT ANSWER
HOW TO READ A PILLING REPORT BEFORE BUYING FLEECE FOR JACKETS
Before approving a fleece, check which side the lab tested, which method it used and when it graded the sample. For an exposed fleece jacket, mark the outward-facing pile. For fleece bonded to a shell, mark the fleece backing if that is where the buyer sees the problem. Compare the reported appearance at the agreed test stage with the acceptance criterion in your order.
KEY TERMS
WHAT THE REQUIREMENT ACTUALLY MEANS
- Pilling
- Small balls of tangled fibres that remain attached to the fabric surface.
- Fuzzing
- Loose fibre ends protruding from the surface. On brushed fleece, compare the change with an untested piece of the same fabric.
- Matting
- Areas where the raised pile becomes tangled and loses its original texture.
Which face will the buyer actually see?
Imagine a fleece work jacket with a patch pocket. The buyer wants the sleeve and the body to keep a similar appearance. Mark the outside of each proposed fabric on a cutting swatch and keep an untested piece alongside it. On a bonded jacket, give the shell face and the fleece backing separate labels. A result for the smooth shell leaves the appearance of the fleece lining an open question.
Industrial workwear
On a work jacket, the fleece may form the visible outer panel or sit inside a bonded shell. Mark the surface your buyer will inspect before sending the swatch to the lab.
Application guide ↗What does the Martindale report measure?
Brilliant-Tex lists a Martindale tester for both abrasion and pilling. On the report, look for the procedure used for this sample. ISO 12945-2:2020 covers the modified Martindale method for surface pilling, fuzzing and matting. ISO 12945-4:2020 covers visual assessment and includes fleeces in its scope. A count of rubs until a hole forms answers a different purchasing question.
- Read the method and edition alongside the number of rubs at assessment.
- Check whether the reported observation covers pills, fuzz or flattened pile. A fleece can show more than one change.
Match the report to the fabric on offer
If a quotation says only “pilling grade 4”, ask for the missing fields before comparing prices. Two suppliers can quote the same grade after different numbers of rubs or on different sides of the fabric. Ask for a comparable assessment if either field differs. The buyer and supplier should agree the acceptable grade and the assessment stage before ordering.
- Fabric code, colour, lot, finish and marked test face.
- As-delivered or after the care treatment specified in the order.
- Method, assessment stage, appearance grade and the buyer’s acceptance criterion.
Two work-jacket swatches to label differently
PF1/ROOOSO is brushed on both sides. Pin the proposed outward face to the jacket sketch so the lab and the cutting room use the same side. PP17/ROOO68-1 60C REC is a bonded construction. If the concern is bobbling inside the collar, mark the fleece backing on the finished composite. Testing loose fleece from an earlier development stage leaves the identity of the offered material unresolved.
What to send with the sample request
A short brief can read, “Please send a cutting from the offered lot. Mark the fleece face intended for our collar. Quote the pilling test on that face, identify the assessment stages, and return the report with an untested comparison swatch.” Add the care procedure if acceptance depends on laundering. For a tender, attach the relevant clause so the supplier can flag any difference before testing.
- Retain a labelled control and file the buyer’s decision with the report.
- If the concern is damage from a particular strap or hook-and-loop fastening, review that contact on a prototype as a separate check.
RELATED PUBLISHED PRODUCTS
REVIEW RELATED FABRICS
These products illustrate different construction routes. Published specifications support initial evaluation; final performance, test methods and care conditions remain project-specific.PF1/ROOOSO
Polyester polar fleece, brushed on both sides. Listed weight 260 g/m² and cuttable width 150 cm.
Mark the side that will face out on the jacket before asking for a pilling report.Review product details ↗DurashellPP17/ROOO68-1 60C REC
75D recycled polyester mechanical-stretch fabric bonded to polyester fleece. Listed weight 250 ± 10 g/m² and cuttable width 145 cm.
Request the finished bonded swatch and identify the fleece backing for a lining-side assessment.Review product details ↗FACT CHECK
TECHNICAL SOURCES
The two catalogue entries identify sample constructions. Ask for a report on the offered material to establish its grade.- ISO 12945-2:2020 ↗Scope of the modified Martindale method for assessing surface change.
- ISO 12945-4:2020 ↗Scope of visual assessment, including raised surfaces such as fleece.
- Brilliant-Tex laboratory equipment ↗Martindale equipment photograph and published list of test items.
BUYER FAQs
QUICK CLARIFICATIONS
Can an abrasion test tell us how much a fleece will pill?
An abrasion breakdown result records wear to a specified endpoint. Ask for a separate appearance assessment of the marked fleece face to answer the pilling question.
How many months of jacket wear does a pilling grade represent?
The grade describes the tested specimen at the stated assessment stage. To evaluate wear at a collar or under a specific strap, review a garment trial under the intended conditions.